Sunday 13 January 2019

The 1st first : The Wallace Collection

I have spent most of life in London but I had never been to the Wallace Collection. I am not sure why as I grew up going to art collections. We live close to Dulwich and I went to school there so have been a frequent visitor to Dulwich Gallery all my life. When travelling, Vel I go to galleries and museums including smaller collections such as the Frick. There is no excuse, no logical explanation so last week I went.

My first problem was finding it. This is nothing to do with the Wallace Collection - it's clear on their web-site, it's a significant building. This was my fault. I had assumed it was another building just north of Bond Street. Oops! This meant I arrived later than intended but did get to explore St Christopher's Place which is a surprise of smaller establishments in contrast to the monoliths of the Oxford Street department stores.

I thoroughly enjoyed my brief visit to the Wallace Collection. It's another gem built up by a family with a very good eye and I think these collections are the most special. There's a link between the pictures and it's not overwhelming as the big institutions. (The only time I have been seriously lost in the US is when I have been trying to find the exit in the New York Metropolitan Museum).

Before going, I knew about the Laughing Cavalier by Frans Hals I did not know about the Rembrandts, Velasquez, Van Dykes. There is an awful lot of armour and I am afraid that that is one collection I can live without. Dulwich of course has Rembrandts and for a while I was growing up when the local joke was "are the Rembrandts in or out?" Not because they were on loan but because they kept getting stolen. There was also one trip to New York when my Mother and I made our regular pilgrimage to the Frick only to find there was a temporary exhibition from Dulwich and the poster girl was the Rembrandt of a girl.

Back to the Wallace. Oddly one of the pictures that immediately jumped out at me was a version of Velasquez' the Infanta. The light was a delight. Also lovely to see a focus on the Infanta after seeing Picasso's interpretation in Barcelona.

I have always had a soft spot for Hals. He has a way of letting you identify with his subjects. I am not sure his Cavalier is laughing but he certainly has a twinkle in his eye and was probably very good company. If you go to the National Gallery and see his portrait of a family which is so human.

But yes it is Rembrandt that for me is the star. Look at his thoughtful picture of his son. His self-portrait isn't the greatest I have ever seen but it is unmistakable. His portraits in the Great Hall are terrific.

Lots of small details. A Fragonard, Whistler doing a photo-shop version of George IV. Delicate pieces of furniture.

It may have been the first time I have been but I am already planning to go back.


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